Climbing Kilimanjaro - February 2016
February 11 - Arrival in Tanzania
Arrived
late last night. The plane arrived 5 minutes early after a very long
trip from Seattle to Amsterdam, changed planes, then on to Kilimanjaro.
Too many meals. The trip through Immigration took at least an hour,
going from line to line. Finally on to the lobby where the One Seed
Expeditions greeter met me, and we drove to the Honey Badger Lodge.
Rained
on the way here. Met with fruit juice and a smile. Others to
come in later. We will
be 10
climbers, 6 women & 4 men. Got to the room about 11:30.
By the way, the
name
of the country is pronounced "Tan-zah-nia" with the accent
on the second syllable, zah.
February 12 - First Day in Tanzania
Slept well
wrapped
in mosquito netting. Lodge is somewhat primitive but with
everything you need, including a swimming pool, which we didn't have time to enjoy.
Monkeys in the trees, small turtles in
an enclosure, and the sound of water bubbling in the pool. The lodge is in Moshi, but we
aren't
within walking distance of anything, so I'm just relaxing. There
are
3 million in the area which includes Moshi and Arusha. Moshi is
135,000.
Went to a coffee farm today. Walked to a waterfall on the way,
but
we had a 45 minute thunder storm. I mean solid thunder for 45
minutes. The skies opened and it poured. Stopped raining after
lunch
on way to coffee farm. The waterfall we saw was spectacular.
Coffee and tourism are essentially the only industries in
Tanzania. Saw demonstration of coffee processing then tasted the
coffee we roasted and ground. Strong but very smooth. Following
the coffee from raw bean to a cup of coffee in my hand
was very educational, and the coffee tasted great. I discovered
that
singing is a very important part of daily life, and there is even
a
call and response song for grinding coffee.
Stopped at the currency exchange and the ATM on the way back and
found the exchange rate for big US money (50s and 100s) is better
than for small bills, (not unexpected) and both are better than
the
ATM. Then back to the Lodge. Most have arrived but a couple of
people
arrive late tonight.
Finishing the Welcome Dinner. 5 men, 5 women, plus a One Seed representative. A couple of guys
are
probably in their late 50s.
It was a good day. Off early tomorrow for the climb!
February 13 - Day 1 on the
Mountain
After a good breakfast at the Honey Badger Lodge, we drove
about an hour to the park entrance at Marangu, where we waited at the Welcome shed for another 1-1/2
hrs
while we were registered and our bags were weighed.
Porters are
limited in the # of lbs they can carry, and it it is strictly
adhered
to. There are also park regulations for the number of guides,
cooks and
extras, and it adds up to the Tazanian Full Employment Act.
The first half of the day was through the forest zone, with the
canopy covering the trail most of the time. The porters use a road
that is the old trail and emergency access. It is good to separate
the traffic at least at the beginning. Our trail is either gravel
with water bars or rocks and roots with drainage channels down the
side. It is easier to walk in the drainage ditches than on the
rocks.
Hiking in a T-shirt and shorts, with a floppy hat. It was a warm
day
and the sweat was flowing freely.
We carried our lunch to the halfway point. Roast chicken, banana,
cheese sandwich, some sort of cupcake and pineapple juice. Good
rest.

Back on the trail again. Same landscape. The guides rotate in
front, middle and end. We get to walk near all of them. Although
there are some stronger hikers, we seem to rotate too. We arrived
at
Mandara Hut after a total of about 5 hours. We gained about 3000
feet
after starting at 6000, so the first night is at 9000 ft. I
started
taking diamox to help with altitude sickness last night.
The
accommodations make Mountaineers' Meany Hut seem luxurious.
We
are all in one A-frame hut: the 1st floor is a general dining
room, and the bunkroom is 2nd floor. There isn't much room for our bags
and
pack,
and with boots on the floor, the room is an obstacle course at
night.
The mattresses are OK. The toilets are in a different hut 50-100
feet
away. A headlamp is mandatory at night. Flush toilets but no
toilet
paper. We were told to bring our own. Good thing.
After settling in and wiping off the sweat, we met in the
lunchroom for tea and popcorn. A bit later we had dinner: soup (type
unknown but good), cabbage, ugala (sort of like mashed potatoes),
rice with vegetable or meat sauce, fruit. More about food and food
preparation tomorrow.
February 14 - Day 2 on Mountain
Awakened and hot wash water and basins arrived on the back step 5 minutes later.
Breakfast at the hut consisted of porridge (again type unknown but
good), bread with honey, peanut butter or jelly, egg like omelet
with
nothing in it, watermelon, hot beverage.
Cooking in the Park is a challenge. There are no facilities, only
sheds with bare cement tables. The porters carry in everything,
including all the stoves, the gas, the washing equipment, eating
dishes, as well as all the food for the entire trek.
On the trail again. The landscape changed from forest to shrub
soon after starting. Some of the shrubs are 20 feet high, but they
got smaller the higher we went. Same sort of hike. Gained another
3000 feet, so we ended at Horombo Hut, 12000 ft. Cold tonight. Same sort of high
calorie, high carb dinner.
They took our pulse and blood oxygen levels tonight. Everyone's
resting pulse is high, about 100, and blood oxygen low, anywhere from
84
to 94. They said we all could go on, but some are starting to have
some of the symptoms of altitude sickness.
February 15 - Day 3 on Mountain
I
won't repeat things every day. Food, accommodations and routine
is the same. Kibo Hut has no potable water, so the porters had to
carry all water, both for cooking and for drinking. No wash
water. Also, the "toilets" are are just holes in the floor over a 30
foot ledge.
Today we entered the next zone, with very few plants, only low
grass and a few flowers. Arrived at Kibo Hut at 15,000ft about
2:30pm. Tea, then a light dinner and to bed by 5pm.
Most of us have some light symptom altitude sickness, such as no
appetite or sleeplessness. My intestines rebelled about halfway
through the afternoon. Started antibiotic.
The huts are not heated, and the only light is from a very low
wattage light bulb powered by solar energy. The huts keep you dry
and
out of the wind and hold in some of the heat from the other bodies, but it
is
cold at night. Using the heavy liner in my sleeping bag. OK.
February 15 and 16 Day 4 on Mountain
– To the Summit
Up and on the trail at 12:20am. Our water bottles were filled
with
very warm water. Mine was inside a wool sock in my pack. I also
have
1-1/2 liters of water in a bladder in my pack, so I can drink
while I
walk without having to use my bottle. They told us to blow the
water
back into the bladder after drinking so the tube wouldn't freeze.
Finally, the bite valve froze, so I had to switch to the bottle.
Drinking constantly is extremely important.
The guide made us start single file, women first. That slows
things down so you don't tire as fast. But soon the faster ones
started to move ahead, not necessarily a good move. We all walked
with headlamps.
Somewhere before 18,000ft, the 62 year old male long distance
bicycler from New Jersey decided to crawl under a ledge and go to
sleep. He said would nap and we could pick him up on the way down.
He
was having starbursts in his vision and was out of it. He was
helped
down.
Soon afterward I was feeling utterly exhausted. Sat for a couple
of minutes, drank and nibbled and felt better. As we walked, he guides lead us
in
call and response. "Oy, oy, oy." Response "Oy."
Then "One Seed" --- "Expeditions." Then "No
retreat" --- "No surrender." This was repeated many
times, and it really helped.
We were all exhausted, but I think all the rest, 10 of us, made it to
the first real milestone, Gilman's Point, above 18,000ft. Some
others
were looking very ragged. I saw a 30 something engaged couple,
both
very physically fit (probably near the best in the group(, sitting
on
a rock. He was grey, and she was concerned, but he insisted on
going
on. Just after that Tony, about 40, a search and rescue specialist
from Colorado, and I, started to have a light hacking cough. Stop,
catch your breath and go on.
From Gilman's to Stella Point we were continuing up. A 30
something gal of Indian heritage started throwing up. Tony attended to her and realized that she could go on, with lots of
encouragement. He held her belt when she bent over to get sick,
then
got her moving up again. He got her to put one foot in front of
the
other in a slow cadence.
At Stella you can see the actual summit. I had been taking
pictures of snow at the top of the mountain, but it wasn't the
summit!
The male of the 30 something couple looked horrible. He
couldn't control his feet and he wasn't making sense. His fiancee
finally said that he couldn't go on. It took two assistant guides to
take him all the way down 3000 feet to Kibo Hut, one on each arm,
50ft at a time. She went with him.
About that time I was following one of the guides and saw that
his
steps were not in a straight line and were very wobbly. Altitude
sickness is unpredictable and can affect anyone, no matter how
experienced. He was evacuated down with another guide. Another
person, a male of Indian extraction, stayed at Stellar, not going
higher. That left 7 of our group on the mountain, including the 25
year old female rep from One Seed.
Dan, a 61 year old retirement investment advisor from NJ, a trail
runner, was out of his mind and hallucinating, seeing starbursts.
Dan
is just generally crazy, and he kept going. He said that every
time
he put his head down and then up, he got dizzy. He did this while
demonstrating, so he got dizzy. He insisted on going on. The main
guide was with him and decided that his problem wasn’t life-threatening, so Dan continued.
By this time, many weren't carrying their own packs. I still was.
I was generally on my own, but people checked with me to make sure
I
was all right. We crossed a snowfield horizontally, not serious
enough to require crampons.
From there it was just a short pitch to the summit. I was the
first, but 4 of us made it within 2 minutes. I had my picture
taken
with my Lakeside 50th Reunion hat and an Opposition hat.
Dan made
it
10 minutes later, and after taking pictures, we forced him to come
down with us. Two others were slow but steady and also made it. 7
out
11 made it.
Then we had to turn around and go down.
Long before I left, I knew that coming down would be hell
on my knees, so I had open-patella knee braces in my pack. Before starting down, I
slapped the braces on the outside of my pants. (I was wearing only 2
layers on my legs but 6 layers on top.) I knew that coming down 4000ft
from the summit to Kibo was going to be hard, but it was more than that, it was brutal.

Things were OK to Gilman's, as
there were no steps down. At Gilman's the terrain changed to rocky steps. I have been
using hiking sticks all the way up. Now I lengthened them for going
down. Every step is difficult. Although I was reasonably fast going up, I
am close to the slowest going down. One step at a time, right foot
first. I
was slow. When I got part way down, a guide met me and gave me
some
encouragement.
Near the bottom, the 30th year old couple, the one with him being evacuated,
was 1000 feet in front of me.
I couldn't catch them as I got slower
with each step. Finally a guide saw my problem and took my pack. It really helped not to be carrying the weight.
I arrived at Kibo, not the last one, but one of the last. Chris was put to bed for a while. The rest
of us ate “breakfast,” but it was already after noon. We were
supposed to leave for Horombo right after breakfast, but we didn’t
leave immediately so Chris could have a longer rest. We finally
left
about 4:20pm, and it is about 4 hours to Horombo, so we finished
the
descent under headlamps. I had taken an analgesic at Kibo, so my
knees were feeling better. We got to Horombo and dinner. It was great to finish the day. 7,500
feet
up and down in 36 hours is brutal.
Took more meds (intestines not completely OK yet) and
something for my knees, then off to bed. Still have a light cough,
although I am now down at 15000.
February 16 - Day 5 – Coming off the Mountain
Got up reasonably early for breakfast. Warm wash water this
morning. Yeah! Some of the altitude sickness sufferers still
aren't
100%. My knees, with rest and meds, are better, and my intestines
are
fine now. All we have talked about since coming down is getting to
the Honey Badger and a hot shower. Can't wait.
Before we left Horombo, the guides and porters celebrated our success by dancing and singing.

Today we do the first two days of hiking in the opposite
direction. Knee braces still on. I am really slow. The water bars
and
steps are a pain, literally. Interesting to see the landscape from the other direction.
We were looking down at our feet going up, and frankly we didn't care
what it looked like, and it was pitch black coming down last night. Lunch at Mandara Hut.
I had been offered a ride down to the gate, and I had declined. I
reconsidered. The rest of the crew left Mandara and I walked down for
an hour to the lunch spot from the first day. Issa, one of the guides
walked with me and we had a great chat. I really learned a lot from him
about Tanzania.
A bus/van was waiting for us at the lunch spot, and we had a
quick ride to the gate. Issa went to organize the porters and
equipment as the porters came down, and I waited in the Welcome shed.
The group straggled in about 1 to 1-1/2 hours later. My decision to ride
was a good one. I would still be on that trail.
We took the van back to the lodge and that heavenly hot
shower. Beers and a celebratory dinner followed, complete with the
awarding of summiting certificates.
Off to bed and a new adventure tomorrow, safariing.